An Open Letter to AmericInn

Dear AmericInn,

I’m having a nice time staying at your hotel in Grundy Center, Iowa.  The bed is comfy, the room clean, the indoor pool fun and the breakfast waffles tasty.  So why are you messing with my good opinion of you by censoring my internet usage?

I tried to read an article on Sports Illustrated’s site this morning, only to find that it was blocked.  Good heavens, why?  The only clue I have is a message stating “This site was categorized in: News/Media, Sports, Lingerie/Bikini”.  I presume it’s that last one that presents you with the problem.  Are you worried that viewing brazen hussies clad only in their swimwear will damage my developing mind?  Or do you fear pictorial representations of mountains of heavily-muscled manflesh will give me a fatal case of Teh Gays?

And setting aside the absurdity of classifying Sports Illustrated as pornographic, why on earth are you fretting over what I’m viewing at all?  I assure you, I’m a grown man, traveling in the company of a lovely woman who takes pride in exposing me to innocence-shattering displays of nudity on a regular basis; puritanizing my site selection will do nothing to shield me from the terror of boobs.

Are you afraid that, if you don’t censor your guests’ internet usage, children might see something naughty?  I assure you that, if those particular parents are so inept at managing their kids’ on-line activities they can’t keep those kids away from porn on a laptop they control in a room where everybody can see what everybody else is doing, those kids are already downloading whatever they want whenever they want.  They’ve already found a proxy site you haven’t blocked and are, at this moment, resuming their ongoing multimedia game of Grosser Than Gross.  And after that site with the goats, the six-year-old is about to barf in a wastebasket.

Meanwhile, those of us who’d like to read a summary of the weekend’s football games are shit outta luck.

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Lincoln

So Jasmine and I saw Lincoln a few weeks ago. I was very interested in seeing it; I’m fascinated by that period of American history, and the movie’s been getting great reviews.

The movie warns you with its first scene that it has no patience for how the American Civil War normally gets presented on screen. Union troops, mostly black, are doing battle with the Confederates in a shallow river during a pouring rainstorm. There’s no misty-eyed “Brother Versus Brother” tragedy, no haughty “Lost Cause” revisionism cluttering things up. These guys are going at it with bayonets, rifle butts, knives, fists, boots; this is dirty, brutal, and personal.

We learn how personal in the very next scene, where Lincoln is chatting with a couple of the soldiers (both black) who’d participated in the battle. It was payback, you see. Not too long before, the Confederates had won a battle and declined to take any prisoners, simply executing any blacks who’d either surrendered or lay wounded. The troops who’d lived to fight another day were eager to return the favor.

Yeah. Fuck your Lost Cause. For Lincoln, the war has become what it had always been for America’s black residents: a crusade to put an end to a monstrous injustice.

From there the movie turns to Washington, and the fight to pass the 13th Amendment — the one abolishing slavery in the US. And that’s where it stays, up until a few scenes at the very end. And that’s where problems start showing up.

Jasmine hated it; she was bored stiff. My reaction was somewhere between Jasmine and all the Oscar buzz. I enjoyed myself, but is it overrated? Unfortunately, yes.

Jasmine’s issue (please correct me if I’m wrong, love) was that it was so interminably talky. She compared it to C-SPAN as a costume drama. She’s not wrong; the movie focuses on all the political wrangling and arm twisting behind the passage of the 13th Amendment. I thought this was very interesting; I was not aware it was such a contentious issue even with the South no longer participating in the debate. (Well, not participating in the debate in Congress, anyway. They were arguing their case with rifles and cannons.) I didn’t realize the Emancipation Proclamation was, from a legal standpoint, based on insane troll logic and would almost certainly have imploded under the scrutiny of a peacetime court.  And I thought the parallels between the politics of then and now (partisan loathing, favors pushing the boundaries of legality, purists bitching over the compromises being made) were clear enough to be interesting without beating you over the head. If none of that sounds interesting to you, sit this one out; whatever the movie’s other strengths, they won’t be enough to keep you engaged.

But here’s where I thought the movie went wrong: it never decided whether it was about Abraham Lincoln or about the passage of the 13th Amendment.

There’s a scene late in the movie after the amendment passes (spoiler alert: slavery is illegal now) when Lincoln is sitting down with a Confederate peace delegation. Their leader, Confederate vice president Alexander Stephens, thinks he knows what this “13th Amendment” nonsense is all about. It may have passed Congress, but it still needs to be ratified by the states. And if the South surrenders and is allowed back into the Union soon enough, they’ll have more than enough votes to squash it. It’s a threat, a negotiating ploy: end the war, or your worst fear becomes a reality. And given that the war is going badly for the South, he is indeed ready to discuss surrender if it means preserving slavery.

Except he’s wrong. It’s not a ploy. It’s not a threat. Lincoln doesn’t so much as hint at budging: the 13th Amendment is going to happen. Slavery is about to be abolished in the United States. Also, the South needs to surrender.

The movie misses one hell of an opportunity. A mere two years earlier, Abraham Lincoln would have taken the deal. He’d been adamant, from the beginning, that slavery was a price he was willing to pay if it meant the preservation of the Union. Hell, the Emancipation Proclamation itself contained an olive branch. It specified that if any of the rebelling states would lay down arms before January 1, 1863 — more than three months after it was issued — it would not apply to them.

None of the Confederate states took him up on it, and no wonder; at the time, they were winning. But that’s not the point. The point is, something changed. Was it a function of the North now looking like it was going to win? Or had Lincoln gone from a slavery-tolerating pragmatist to True Believer?

Showing that journey would, I think, have been fascinating, and would have added real impact to a gut-punch moment late in the movie when Lincoln is touring a battlefield and witnessing the thousands of mutilated corpses who might all still be live men if he’d been willing to compromise.

That’s not a journey the movie is interested in taking — and, if you accept that it’s about the 13th Amendment, that is indeed outside the movie’s scope. But if that’s what it’s really about, why do some of the key figures in that fight sometimes seem so cursory? Tommy Lee Jones steals damn near every scene he’s in as fire-breathing abolitionist congressman Thaddeus Stevens. I could watch an entire movie of him verbally curb-stomping his pro-slavery colleagues in Congress. Yet his final scene, where we get a look at what’s driving the man, is the most touching and human in the movie. “A gift for you…. Read it to me again, my love.”

He is, in short, a fabulous character. I wish we’d seen more of him. But the movie’s not about him, it’s about Abraham Lincoln … except it’s not really about Abraham Lincoln, it’s about the 13th Amendment … except….

Yeah. It’s a muddled movie.

It is, to me, still a very good movie, and Daniel Day Lewis does indeed completely vanish into the title role. If what I’ve described sounds interesting, by all means check it out.

But if it doesn’t, give it a miss.

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Trains and Lady Wizards

Looking for a good short story? Then check out Seeking the Great Raymundo by Jamie Lackey, currently appearing on Beneath Ceaseless Skies.

Jamie’s a friend, and this story highlights a lot of what I love about her writing; she brings a real sense of warmth and humanity to the table, and while she’ll use archetypes that feel familiar, they never feel predictable.

It’s a lovely piece. Go check it out.

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Thrift Store of the Damned

So Jasmine and I are driving back from a lovely mini-vacation in Gettysburg this afternoon, and I’m in an impulsive mood. We notice what looks like a big damn yard sale as we’re coming up on Mister Ed’s Elephant Museum and Candy Emporium. How can you resist a name like that, when you’re on the road and have a little room in your schedule? You can’t.

Twenty minutes later, after an unremarkable candy selection and all the kitschy elephants in the world, we’re about to head back on the road. So, why not double-back and hit that yard sale? We remembered noticing it on the way out, too. And, hey, two days later, it’s still going! Let’s see what they have!

We park next to an old farm house that’s in not-so-great condition, and the early signs are encouraging. Doggies! Puppies! Healthy, bouncy puppies bounding out to greet us! Aw, who’s a good puppy? You are! Yes you are!

The puppies are so adorable that we don’t quite notice the condition of the merchandise right away — and there are piles of it, scattered throughout the yard. Old equipment, glassware, toys, much of it broken, all of it dirty. There’s stagnant rainwater in everything that can collect it. We notice grass growing through the handles of a pile of old coffee cups.

Were it not for the very conspicuous “Open!” sign hanging off a stick, we likely would have suspected we were trespassing. We look around to see if anyone is running the yard sale. Sitting at a table, back among the piles of consumer detritus, is a young woman with a round face, shapeless beneath a blue parka much too heavy for the weather. She seems aware we exist, but does not seem to care overmuch.

And behind her are some barking dogs, and more piles of stuff.

Old bottles. Flatware. Tools. Some of it stacked onto shelves. We begin to make out distinct trails going through the piles. Intrigued, we go deeper in to investigate.

The doggies continue to be adorable. An energetic cat leaps in and out of our way. I can’t tell if he’s trying to lead us, or warn us.

An old man with a beard tells Jasmine there’s more stuff in the barn, and she passes this along to me. I never saw the old man, but choose to believe he exists.

There is indeed more stuff in the barn.

Anything incapable of surviving the elements is stacked in the barn — art, mirrors, books, remnants of old games. It’s dry, but otherwise comparable to the stuff sitting outside. The floor feels soft and unsteady under my feet; I grow uneasy about whether the old barn’s floor can support my weight. In fact, I’m just uneasy in general. I feel like I’ve stepped into a horror movie. I decide not to call out to Jasmine and insist we stay in each other’s line of sight at all times, because hey, this is a real thing that’s really happening, run by real people who would no doubt be insulted if I imply that I’m afraid they’ll cook us and add the contents of my car to their “store.”

Because this collection has been growing; you can tell. Some of it is sorted, at least a little, like the bookshelves lining the far wall. Cardboard boxes hold mismatched sets of random things, like they got packed for a move but never made it to where they were supposed to go.

I make a mental note to keep track of where Jasmine is at all times.

I reach for my cell phone to take pictures, but realize I left it in the car. This makes me very nervous for reasons that have nothing to do with taking pictures.

Not that I think the pictures would have mattered much. I’m not a good enough photographer to capture the sense of dread permeating the place. It’s as though several thrift stores were stabbed to death and dragged out here to rural Pennsylvania, and we’re picking over their corpses.

Jasmine catches up with me. She’s found a lovely little serving tray. Normally, the best part of shopping with Jasmine is her sense of whimsy and glee, but not today. She’s just as freaked out as I am.

We decide it’s time to pay for her find and head out — and that’s when I notice the old barn has a first floor we haven’t even investigated.

Sitting inside is a rusted-out cigarette machine. The inserts advertising the brands have rotted to nothing, but the packs all cost 60 or 65 cents apiece. Against our better judgment, we go in.

And that’s when I find the epicenter.

I walk into a room to find a counter with a cash register. Based on the junk piled atop it, I’d say it hasn’t been used in quite some time. There are shelves running the length of the room, all with some semblance of organization, though browsing them requires maneuvering around the mirrors and decomposing pictures leaned against them. I see old kitchen goods with labeling that takes me back to my childhood. There are prices scattered on the shelves for the items that were once stacked there.

It must have started here. This must have been a perfectly nice country thrift store, once. But the merchandise grew, like a tumor. It choked the life out of the store proper, but still kept growing, until it filled the barn and the yard surrounding it. The store still limps on, a grotesque parody of itself. The store cannot be locked, the goods cannot be protected from theft. But what thief could it tempt? The more merchandise the store acquired, the less desirable its merchandise became.

There was no thrill of discovery, no excitement at the possibility of finding hidden treasures; searching for concealed coolness would require touching the merchandise, and neither Jasmine nor I were eager to do that. Part of the fear came from watching too many bad horror movies; I tried to push that nonsense out of my mind, but the omnipresent gloom and decay kept it from ever leaving quietly. Part of it was concern about our physical surroundings; the barn wasn’t actually collapsing, but it looked eager to get on with that stage of its existence.

Most of our dread came, I think, from the dawning realization that in order for this place to exist, something must have gone horribly wrong. The little pockets of organization actually made the random heaps of junk all the more disquieting; somebody had cared, once. Somebody had tried to make this a real store. They eventually stopped trying — but the stuff kept coming.

What the hell was this? Some mutant strain of hoarding? I felt like we were inside a tragedy, that we were rummaging through the symptoms of a serious mental illness.

But, what the heck. We did find a really cool tray. And freaked-out though we were, somebody was willing to sell it to us.

We asked the girl how much the tray cost. She ran into the house, and shortly returned with an answer of $3. Seemed fair enough.

I was thinking of other junkhounds I know, wondering if they might be interested in this place. “What days are you open?” I asked the girl.

“Year round!” she said.

I believe her. Rain or shine, snow or sleet, I believe her.

As we left — both of us relieved to be safely back in the car — we saw an old faded sign on the barn. “Totem Pole Trading Post,” it said. A Google search on "totem pole trading post" chambersburg pennsylvania turned up nothing. Which is a shame, because I wanted to see if the rest of the world knew about it. See if anybody had written the review “The staff was pleasant enough, but did nothing to allay the creeping existential horror that slowly covered us as we browsed.”

I really wish I had some photos, inadequate though they’d surely be, so I can prove this place existed. If you’d like to see it for yourself, it’s about three and a half hours east of Pittsburgh near Rt. 30, at the intersection of Newman Road and Lincoln Highway near Chambersburg, PA.

We may go back, eventually. But if we do, I mean to search for the answer to one question:

What the hell happened here?

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American History on a Whim

So in honor of my last few days of unemployment, Jasmine and I are preemptively spending some of my first paycheck on a little vacation to Gettysburg, four hours away.

Without realizing this is Remembrance Day weekend.

Luckily, we still managed to snag a hotel room in downtown Gettysburg. And, we’ve been promised there will be reenactors wandering the streets, who should be recognizable by their awesome facial hair.

On to the ghost tour!

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Hello, World. Again.

So, after languishing through years of embarrassing neglect, I’m going to take a stab at running my site as a blog.

The problem is, of course, that I feel like I don’t have a heck of a lot to say. But I occasionally have been posting stuff on my Facebook account that I wouldn’t mind being accessible to the non-FB bits of the world.

And what the heck; having my own personal playground for WordPress has to be a good thing, right?

So here I am.

Let’s see what this thing can do.

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